Peru
Nov 2013
There is a whole world out there to be discovered. No time like the present to start exploring!
On the advice of friends and family that have been to Peru previously, I decided to experience the land of the Inca for myself. The focus of this adventure was to walk part of the Inca Trail and see Machu Picchu. Entrance and transportation permits are strictly regulated so it is advisable to make reservations months in advance. The tour package I purchased also included hotel stays, tours, and ground/air transportation within Peru. In hind sight, I recommend purchasing only the admission and transportation to/from Machu Picchu in advance. You will spend less money and have a more flexible schedule by arranging the rest of your journey separately. I stayed 3 nights in Lima, 3 nights in Cusco, 3 nights on the trail, 2 more in Cusco, and 2 more in Lima. Depending on how much you enjoy City Life, and to some extent the company you are keeping, I recommend spending most of your time in Cusco or its surroundings rather than in Lima. Over the next few years, Peru is planning to build an international airport close to Cusco, so you may be able to skip the city altogether.
My first introduction to Lima was a harrowing taxi ride from the airport to my B&B. While Peru is, for the most part, a 3rd-world country, its largest city is not all that dissimilar to other major metropolitan areas around the world. Looking out the window I could swear I was on Queens Boulevard racing toward NYC; mammoth potholes and all. The radio blaring an unbroken melody of rock hits from the 80’s. All time-changed to match an overdubbed, monotonous techno beat. There was serious consideration for tipping the driver extra in hopes that future passengers may have the luxury of padding in the seats. But another bottle of cheap cologne was a more likely result.
A brief search on Lonely Planet’s ThornTree introduced me to Casa Ana. A Backpacker’s B&B just on the outskirts of the city center. Yes, I could have stayed at the Sheraton a few blocks away for $250USD, but $15USD was more my pace. For that modest rate I had my own room, a shared bath, breakfast, and farm animals. Chris Robinson once penned the phrase, “The Rooster crows at the break of dawn.” Bull Sh#$. The rooster crows all firkin’ night long!! I see a siesta in the near future.
But I am experiencing the journey of a lifetime. Slapped on my street shoes and started out. Lima was founded in 1535. Its more touristed buildings and cathedrals date to the 1600’s. However, earthquakes were not kind to Spanish architecture and many of the building as you see them today really only date from the past century or so. Still, their intricate carvings and 3-dimentional design are worth visiting. Lima has dedicated itself to a cleansing of its streets akin to the changes you’d find in Time Square or Falls Park. Gone are the street vendors, contraband markets, and undesirable elements (aka you are less likely to be knifed). In their place is just about every American restaurant and European clothing store you can think of. In some quarters it’s actually difficult not to eat as if at the Haywood Mall. Although it is worth noting that one can get a free line of cocaine by patronizing a house of ill repute. “Undesirable element” is a loose term.
One thing that did strike me about the design of Peruvian Capitalism are the singular purpose buildings. I strolled into what I thought was a mall only to see cubical after cubical of print shops. These are not your FedEx/Kinko’s. Each one is only maybe 5ft by 10ft. Row after row of nothing but printing and the occasional printer fixit shop. On level 2…more of the same. And 3 and 4. It seemed an endless factory producing menus, advertisements, and business cards. Similar buildings or blocks around town contained the totality of sunglasses for sale, or pocket books, luggage, or drug stores. And don’t think that you’ll find a small backpack or book bag in a luggage quarter; they have their own location…somewhere in the city. It all seemed to me an extent of socialism that would make Marx and Lenin roll over in their graves.
I stepped out to refresh my ink-filled lungs with a deep inhale of car exhaust and ran into Danquis Peolso: a 50ish native of Peru who wants to be a tour guide but does not know enough English. He is convinced the nicest people in America are from Philly. We struck up a conversation and he offered to show me around the city. Behind Jr. de la Union, Lima’s shopping district, you will find ladies of the night…or day…or late mid early morning. 90sol for 2 hr. More for red hair or blond. “Over here used to be my favorite one but it’s now a Radio Shack. I show you the Meet Market”. Pigs heads, cow heads, entrails of all sorts dangling from hooks. “Take siesta out back here. 30sol for massage…more for good time”. Back toward the Plaza San Martin… “This one used to have the Chicas Malor, big butt women. Now it’s a restaurant. Let’s eat here”!
The ceviche was incredible: Shrimp, crab, oyster, calamari, clam, fish, corn, sweet potato, all in a lemon sauce. Toss in a couple Pisco Sours (alcohol drink of choice) and a bottle of Inca Kola…you’d pay upwards of $75 for this meal in the US. It cost me only 40sol. At 2.7 to 1 that’s around $15USD. “Where are you going from here”, he asked. “Cusco and on to the Inca Trail”. “OH! You have to do the Sexy Woman!” All I could picture was a large Tasmanian woman named Rosie. This is going to be a long trip.
To be continued…
Peru
Nov 2013
Part 2
Recently, I traveled to Peru. My original goal was only to hike the Inca Trail and see Machu Picchu. However, I found so much more at every turn. “The Inca Trail” is typically referencing a small segment terminating at Machu Picchu. At the Empire’s height, though, there were thousands of miles of Trail stretching from Columbia to Chili. The hub of that empire was a city in Peru named Cusco. Today, there are numerous segments all over Western South America that can be hiked with varying degrees of regulation and available support. While most people may relate to the Incas through the photos of the citadel known as Machu Picchu, there are hundreds of other structures that can be explored; some larger than MP. It is believed that we have re-discovered less than half of what has been swallowed by the Andean jungle. All this to say, if you seek adventure along the order of the opening seen of “Indiana Jones”, you can find it here!
The city of Cusco was the starting point for exploration, but also a must-see in itself. At more than 11,000ft above sea level, one needs to take the possibility of altitude sickness seriously. If you desire a more gradual ascent to such heights know that, while only 300miles from Lima, the drive takes approximately 20 hours. And if you are a crazy Dutchman named Rob Winjnbergen, you ride a bike…for the fun of it!
Cusco has a bit of everything: Spanish cathedrals, original Inca walls, excellent food, and more tourist/travel offices than people. If you have partaken of a bit too much Chicha, step into Paddy's Irish Pub. It's good to switch it up a bit! There is an enormous amount of history in-town, most with visual accompaniment. Way back when, the Spanish invaders thought it would be a good idea to raze the city of Cusco and build a new city in its place. However, the Inca-constructed buildings proved to be too difficult to destroy so they decided to build on top of them. In 1650 an earthquake leveled almost every building in the city. Not a single Inca stone moved out of place!
Near Cusco are numerous historical sites within what is called the Sacred Valley. Some of the most stunning examples of Inca architecture are here and you will want to explore this region thoroughly. The closest Inca ruins to Cusco are in a temple complex that sits atop a hill overlooking the city: Sacsayhuaman. Pronounced Saxywoman. I’m feeling better about my conversation with Danquis! Here you will find the best examples of fitted or “molded” stone walls. No one really knows how they did it, but the walls are built without mortar. The boulders have been shaped to fit together perfectly regardless of their angles or curvature. Ancient Alien Theorists suggest that the technologies to mold stone and negate gravity were given to the Inca by otherworldly beings. But the truth was lost during the haphazard destruction of their empire by the Spanish.
Another marvel of engineering are the terraces. The Andes present a majestic and imposing landscape. But through the use of stepped terraces, level ground was created for growing crops, building roads, supporting homes, and selling postcards. All of the large Inca sights contain fountains and irrigation systems. These are spring fed and, at least as far as anyone knows, they have never run dry; even through decade-long droughts. Suffice it to say, the Incas had an understanding of nature that surpasses our efforts today. Spend some time at Ollantaytambo, Patallacta, or Moray and allow your mind to be blown!
Back in Cusco, I popped into one of the numerous pizza joints around town. Even went a few blocks away from the main square in hopes of finding “local” cuisine. The guy who owns the place is from Greenville, SC!! Yes, the world is much smaller than it seems. Though, I did have to remind him that blue cheese is no substitute for mozzarella!!
To Be Continue...
Peru
Part 3
There is something magical about exploration and discovery. No photographs, no lyrics, no prose can accurately and completely describe what the eyes, ears, nose, perceive or that 6th sense of belonging one gets while walking on such hallowed ground as this foot path constructed by the Inca.
My introduction to Peru had been very informative. There were tour guides and brochures, posters, books, web sites. I spoke with travel offices, tourists, locals. I packed and repacked for all the known obstacles that might confront me while taking this short walk in the woods. I honestly had begun to feel so over prepared that the Inca Trail experience seemed old hat.
There I found myself. Alone and surrounded. Solid stone under foot. Solid fog hiding the depth of the chasm before me. A snow covered peak appeared in the distance. Standing just on 14,000 feet the chill is unavoidable. But there is a calmness that invites you to linger.
One does not hike the Inca Trail; you experience it. In fact, an Inca descendant-turned-porter for unprepared Gringos recently ran the same 4-day rout in 3:45. Should you take the opportunity to visit Peru, do not simply go from point A to B. Rather, stop, look, listen. Immerse yourself in the energy that exudes from each stone.
Hiking this portion of the trail is closer to the Bright Angle in The Grand Canyon than the Appallachain Trail: at least as it pertains to the number of people walking with you. If you have not been to the Grand Canyon, I do recommend it, but be forewarned that you are more likely to trip on another hiker’s heels than on a rock. Just pretend you are a mule and take it nose to tail! Those who have given the AT a go, however, are often the only ones on that section…or entire mountain for that matter. This being the most accessible portion of Inca Trail, there will be other people around you. My excursion was in the shoulder season. January to March it rains and there are frequent closures. June to September the skies are clear and the temperature can drop well below even my comfort level. November has a chance of rain, but I was in shorts and a t-shirt the entire time.
My prearranged package deal turned out to be a very unique situation. A guide is required for every 8 people: 9 tourists = 2 guides. Two porters for every 3-4 people depending on the extravagance you desire. I fully anticipated walking and camping with between 15 and 30 people. However, at km 82--the start of the hike--I was told that there was no group; I was going solo! It was just me, 2 porters and my guide, Virhilio Heredia. Turns out two girls from Argentina (Amit and Maru) also had a guide to themselves. So, the 5 of us set out into the wild. But there were plenty of other tour agencies represented. In all, each day there were approximately 75 tourists walking the same portion of trail: not including porters. But that's not nearly as crowded as the hundreds the winter months see. This set up turned out to afford me exactly what I was looking for. I could chat with any number of English speakers. Or try my hand at Spanish, Japanese, German…almost any language, really. But mostly I wanted to spend time without conversation. To see ruins without the distraction of bright reds and yellows and blues of modern athletic wear. To sit atop a cliff and listen to the churning waters of the Urubamba below: one of the feeder rivers for the Amazon some 1,000 miles North. And, of course, to have a captive audience in my guide that I could ask any question which came to mind, like, what is the average air speed of a Swallow?
And so it went for 3 days. Long walks, exploring ruins, taking in the vastness of the landscape, roughing it with our personal cooks and dining tent and silverware…ok, I probably ate and slept better there than at home!! The sun shone bright then the next moment you were standing in clouds so thick you could not see your hand. And the stairs! Oh, the endless stairs!! Note to self: in preparation next time, find a gym with a revolving stair climber and walk on it for 5 hours strait! Following the advice of our guides, we put days 3 and 4 together to end at Aqua Calientes that evening. That’s the town at the base of Machu Picchu. The idea being that we would return to MP the following morning much earlier (i.e. before the crowds) than if we had stayed with the itinerary.
Before I left on this trip I read a book called "Turn Right At Machu Picchu". I highly recommend it! The author gives abundant verse to the words of Hiram Bingham; the American archeologist who re-discovered Machu Picchu in 1911. The other half of the book is a modern day Inca Trail experience much like my own. For as informative as my guide was, having read about what I would see allowed me to not fret about missing a step or some important spot. Machu Picchu may be a “ruin” but the INC (Peruvian Historical Preservation Society) keeps it so nice it looks as if people still live there. The entire complex can be walked in less than an hour, but if you stop to take photos or hear about the history, your circumnavigation would take 2-4 hours. I stayed for 8! There are far too many details to go into for this brief summary. Suffice it to say that, should you have the opportunity to visit Peru, you will want to spend as much time here as you can.
Across the ages empires have come and gone. Some have left us evidence of construction, mathematical, astronomical, or spiritual understanding. Sitting on Mt. Machu Picchu taking it all in as but a piece of a much larger puzzle, one thing is clear, “You cannot finish the Inca Trail and not know that this was the endpoint of a pilgrimage.” --Johan Reinhard
Before I knew it, I was back in Cusco already planning the return trip. Many Inca Trail sections are mapped but not touristed. While sorting the details may be cumbersome, it is possible to hike today as Bingham had 100 years ago: machete in hand. Perhaps Vilcabamba to Machu Picchu will happen for me in the not too distant future. You are always welcome to join, of course!
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