Costa Rica and Panama: 2014

Costs Rica, Parts 1 & 2: 2014

Part 1

When researching Costa Rica one notion had become abundantly clear...Do not go into San Jose! So, of course, I went. I wanted to see what all the hubbub was about. I timed my arrival to coinside with the Festival of Lights. Unfortunately, my photos did not capture the scene adaquitly. 

Standing in Parque LA Mèrced directly across from the Movistar booth and their insanely loud PA system...trying to identify the lattinafide Christmass carols being performed by various marching bands...admiring the craftsmanship of floats made as much from lights as paper mache...trying to catch the swag being thrown into the crowd while dodging hundreds of screaming kids, dogs, dog shit, and plates of food tossed on the ground...wearing a backpack...NOT wearing a Santa or NBA hat...and being the only Gringo in sight.

I've been here for all of 1 hour and I am on total sensory overload. You need to include San Jose when you visit Costa Rica . 

Then again, after 3 days, my thoughts changed. If you do not have a specific reason to be in San Jose, you will not find one while you are here.

Tucked away from all the noise and pollution of the big city in the South East corner of the country is the small, vibrant town of Puerto Viejo.  No matter were you stay, you will be drawn toward activities from surfing to horse trekking to finding something dry to wear.  The later being the most challenging. I stayed halfway between PV and the Manzanillo Rain Forest in a backpackers called Walaba.

Taking a walk on the beach has never been more relaxing and exhilarating! For 8K I saw only 2 people: a couple from Toronto who moved here 11 years ago to make free-diving spear guns. Every step was paradise.  You round a bend in the beach only to change your mind again..."Ok, now THIS is the spot I want to return to tomorrow." 

I continued along the beach well beyond the end of the road and the entrance to Manzanillo. Deciding to venture into the rain forest, I began maplessly negotiating a maze of unmarked pathes until I ended up at a farm house. Just as my mind began to play banjo music a voice called out from within, "Hey, Man. Howzit goin'"?

Antonio and I talked for over an hour about his farm and the plants he is very proud of. All maner of fruit trees, a garden for vegetables, medicinal plants...  Like an island utopia.  Then he mentioned that he rarely gets visitors; especially from the way I came. "You are a long way from home."

I smiled. "No. Yo estoy con naturalez. Estoy en casa."

Costa  Rica 

Pt. 2

In Costa Rica, all roads lead to San Jose. Rather...you must drive first to SJ before continuing on to another part of the country.  I am not one to backtrack when traveling, so I found another option; South, into Panama.

First up was Bocas del Toro: an archipelago of mangrove islands similar to the Florida Keys. While the party in Bocas town may not rival that of Duval Street, there is an endless offering of pristine beaches, scuba diving, kayaking, and mood-setting substances.

From time to time I am confronted with a particular genetic abnormality of mine. I enjoy being able to breath! I also prefer cold weather over hot. And so I left the island paradise undiscovered and found solace at a higher ellivation: Boquete. A small mountain town tucked into a narrow valley 30min from David. 

My original notion of this trip was to spend 3 weeks in Costa Rica. Plan B into Panama was to be a 3-day transition from carribbean to pacific. A week or more has passed and I'm still in Boquete! Sloth is not just a jungle creature...it is a way of life.

That is not entirely accurate.  Yes, my time here has included many hours undisturbed in a hammock or people watching in Central Park. But I also managed to partake of several tourist activities. There are many trails for hiking; most easily walkable solo. However, because of an unfortunate incident earlier this year involving 2 unprepared girls from Holland, park rangers at trail heads may deny entrance without a guide. 

Stay at Mamallena Backpackers and they will set you up with whatever you need. There is a mimi-canyon, rafting in Armistead NP, hot springs, waterfalls. Rent a bike and knock the rust off your legs. Or hike the crown jewel of it all...Volcan Baru. From its treeless, 12,000ft (3,400m) peak the intrepid adventurer finds a new perspective on life: above civilization, above other mountins, above the clouds. On a clear day you can see both the Carribbean and Pacific coasts at the same time. What a way to spend Christmas!