Earlier this year I had the opportunity to visit Cambodia. At that time, I was just a tourist and spent every day seeing the country just as it appears in most brochures; which, very unfairly, defines what this country once was, decades and centuries ago, rather that what it is now.
On this trip I spent more time wandering the cities, eating from food stalls, and laughing with the locals who were laughing at me for my reaction to seeing skinned dog heads, twice-cooked rat, and assorted "meats" on sticks that make even Vienna Sausages look appetizing.
"Good" food in Cambodia is on a different scale from other countries in Southeast Asia.
Noodles here are packages of Romin. Though rice is grown it is mostly exported rather than consumed locally.
In the larger cities you will find flavors from around the world. I, unknowingly, stayed in the Indian quarter of Phnom Penh were I had the best curry I've tasted in a long time.
But I am not a foodie; by that I mean I mostly eat out of necessity; and, yes chocolate is a necessity; but what the Cambodian palette lacks is offset by how rediculously cheap it is. Seriously. A filling meal for under $1. And far better for you than KFC; who, along with many other American staples, has taken root here.
Oh, and I picked up a SIM card that gave me 5gig of data to use in 1 week. That also set me back $1. It's refillable, too, or you can pay $3 upfront for 20gig/month.
The capital city of Phnom Penh is constantly alive. Dive into the dark tent markets for food, clothes, jewelry, a doctor, a haircut, a sip of something that would be better off as fule for a motorbike. Put your dexterity and contortionism skills to the test by joining a shuttlecock kicking game in What Botum Park. Families pack onto the grass day and night to picnic in front of the Royal Palace. Travelers and locals alike crowd the streets of "Bar Town": A moniker I made up for the endless peep-show-like bars and hotels just North of the Royal Palace. There is a dizzying array of coffee shops in the more upscale, "Western" neighborhood Southwest of Independence Monument. Win or lose you will deffinitely leave with a smile amidst the opulence of Naga World Entertainment Complex and Casino. And definitely spend time admiring the gem of the city, Riverside Path, which stretches several kilometers along the Tonle Sap River.
The river, by the way, is the main attraction for part of the year. Water normally flows from the Tonle Sap Lake to its confluence with the Mekong River in PP. However, towards the end of the dry season, March/April, the lake level drops below that of the Mekong. The direction of the flow of the Tonle Sap River changes and water flows from the Mekong to the Lake. As the rains return and the lake raises, the water reverts back to its orriginal direction (October/November). It is, perhaps, the only river in the world that changes its direction.
After taking in all the festivities of the King's Coronation Day on October 29th, I forked over the rediculous sum of $11USD to fly from PP to Siem Reap.
Previously, I had explored the enormous temple complex of Angkor Wat just North of town. As with PP, this time I stayed clear of what for many is the only reason to visit Siem Reap.
I also took up residence at the same guesthouse; Two Dragons. There is something comforting about looking into the eyes of the receptionist, hers into yours, and hearing the words, "Welcome to the Two Dragons". Oh well, maybe next time.
After a long day of temple exploration, most visitors let their hair down around Pub Street: rightly named for a few short streets filled with bars and clubs that put Bourbon Street to shame.
I, however, came to town for the Water Festival. Bonn Om Toeuk is the Khmer celebration of the end of the rainy season and the beginning of the fishing season. The Carnival atmosphere is something to behold as the town of 230,000 almost doubles. For three days streets are shut, makeshift shopping areas are erected, fireworks light the skys, music is everywhere, and dragon boats are raced on the Siem Reap River.
When you visit, leave the revelers to their vices and dig a little deeper. SR has become home to many expats who are doing some amazing things. For starters, there are foods from around the world, though perhaps only one restaurant for each instead of several. I found a bar called "Local" that is the only bar in town making craft beer. Many musicians have taken up residence as well. My friend Scott Povey reintroduced me to jazz on my first visit and a few of his fellow musicians played at Charcoal one night.
I also had the great pleasure of meeting Bill and Jill Morse who started the Cambodia Landmine Museum and build schools throughout the country. Siem Reap may seem small, but it has alot going for it.
Other than ancient temples, there is also a growing tourism industry for showing off the floating towns in the Tonle Sap Lake. Be forewarned that these tours often come with a strong-arm pitch to buy food for starving children. Even the locals say you are wasting your money if you chose to give.
There is, however, an alternative. Instead of $40USD to go out-and-back, you can pay $20 for a boat ride from Siem Reap to Battambang; complete with floating villages, drowned trees (in high water), and the occasional running aground. There are few standard paths as the water level and what is in it changes frequently. The boat ride took 6 hours...8 for the door-to-door service.
Battambang is the second largest city in Cambodia: But you would never guess it. Compared to PP, SR, or anywhere really, BB is quiet and laid back. It almost has an air of being a sleepy frontier town.
The one thing you absolutely must do when you visit is to see the circus. No taming of beasts or nightmare-inducing clowns, the Phare Ponleu Selpak art school teaches thematic acribatics similar to Cirque du Soleil. Several nights each week the sudents perform under a big-top tent on the campus. The school is the hub of an arts revival for all mediums and while Battambang's tourism industry is only in its infancy, some of the aspiring artists here are receiving international recognition.
With the popularity of nearby countries like Vietnam and Thailand, Cambodia is sometimes little more than a side stop for tourists. Take a moment to look closer. There is so much more to experience.
http://www.cambodialandminemuseum.org/
http://www.cambodianselfhelpdemining.org/
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