Wednesday, December 13, 2017

Croatia: June - July, 2017

I am often asked how I choose to visit a country or particular place within. The simplest answer is that I have not been there...yet. More accurately, though, my choices are derived from photographs or other traveler's accounts of a place.
On a small scale, where I will end up tomorrow is usually the result of a conversation with someone I met today. But the greater reality is that where I will end up an hour from now is the result of some whim I decided to follow an hour ago.

Welcome to Croatia! The land of blue-green waterfalls, well preserved midevil towns, "Kings Landing", 1000 islands, and 100000000 tourists.
Croatia has realized that tourism means money. As such, the infrastructure for visitors is unmatched. With so many accommodation and eating options one starts to wonder if, and then realizes that, few locals live here. Yes, every coastal town could be a movie set. Yes, you and your Honey Bunny can find a romantic hide-away to bring your dreams to life. But "life" is exactly what's missing.

The Istrian Peninsul offered a similar rocky and often cliffy coastline to that found in Slovenia. It is very different from the more popular Dalmation Islands to the South. If you visit several coastal towns the photos you take may blend together, one place separated from another only by a time stamp.

The vegetation of the Plitvicka Lakes and falls is a nice respite from city dwelling. I understood it to be a unique site, however, there are other similar parks in Croatia and Bosnia. And you can swim in those!!
After several hours of nose-to-tail photography, I crossed the road and followed a trail into the forest. 'Twas a nice walk. With no one else in sight. I felt like stepping off the path to boulder hop and see other groves. Took out the map, notted the position of the sun, and decided I could make the road to the East that my hostel was on. Jumping, slipping, sliding, skipping (why not?). Perhaps an hour later I emerged on the road.
That was fun! I felt a relaxing since of satisfaction; of accomplishment. Turning around I saw a sign which I first took as a simple "No Trespassing". Then I saw the words "Landmine area". I didn't need to shit again for three days.

The next day I road a bike through NW Bosnia & Hertzegovina. Turned out that I was staying beside Zeljava Airfield: the last holdout of Yugoslavia. A bullet strewn airplain welcomes the rare visitor.
Stopping my bike amidst the delapedation and abandonment I feel an almost magically induced silence. Not that of unicorns and rainbows, though. Here, no birds chirp. No insects buzz. No breeze ruffles the leaves. A dead silence. One brought about by a war so recently ended that discarded mettle has yet to rust...wood yet to rot.
At the end of the runway I found a demining crew carrying out a similar daily ritual to my yesterday. Although, they had an ambulance on site.

I ended my tour in Kings Landing (aka Dubrovnik). Bigger and more imposing. Many visit if only to walk along the castle walls. My favorite part was swimming below them. Less chance of having to take the Walk of Shame!

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